Hello, hello, hello!

Well we've broken the 500 miles mark and so far it has been fairly easy going, but perhaps that's because we've been taking it easy at a friend of James's uncle Fred's house in Melsheim. This has been so lovely, it is helping to erase the memory that was last years 'holiday' in the champagne region. For those that managed to miss my entertaining stories about this think tick infested fields and groins, more than one embarassing 'me being caught naked in otherwise empty landscapes' moments, calamities in french toilets and a distinct lack of champagne. Anyway I am actually growing to love France, its beautiful old buildings, preserved way of life and the bread and jam which starts my day. I've even manged to eat vegan in restaurants and there wasn't a limp lettuce leaf in sight. Fred has been a legend at showing us the highlights of Alsace, being so hospitable as well as giving us free reign on his internet connection.

True to form I am still making it up as I go along, looking for additions to my bike to make the going easier as well as taking bits off. I also still don't really know where I am going (frequently in the wrong direction, I may need to attach a gyroscope to my handlebars) but I'm having a good time along the way regardless. I'm trying to come to terms with the fact that James is better at reading maps than me, although its infuriating and makes me want to push him in ditches almost daily and has made me fling my bike in one once, fortunately he's quite good at cycling at a reasonable distance behind me which helps make me feel better about it all.

The first part of our ride was conducted along flat canal tow paths following a fairly straight line from Calais to Strasbourg as James's bike is just so heavy the thought of going up hill was likely to make him get off and push. The first week or so we had a hefty headwind which made the pedalling become a bit tiresome, even having to pedal downhill. Though once we'd moved onto hillier ground it actually seemed to become a bit easier as at least there was a nice veiw to look forward to as well as the downhill.

Things that have made me smile include growing to appreciate France, it's amazing buildings, cathedrals, countryside, bread, jam and brioche au sucre (I know they're not vegan but I just can't help myself). Charleville-Mezieres and Metz were also high points as we had no idea they would be so lovely. The troglodite houses built into the cliff in Graufthal in the Vosges were another happy encounter. I have gleefully met with success in managing to secure us camping space in a friendly farmers field through a combination of BAD french (me) and complicated mime (farmers wife and me). I even have a suntan! There has been an abundance of baby animals around, ducklings, cygnets, foals and we even saw a brand new calf which could barely stand being cleaned of ick which fell over again pretty quickly, as well as a baby sparrow on its first flight using my bike as a handy flying practise perch (that's the little fella at the beginning of this post). We have also spotted a wild boar (I had my glasses on and everything), deer and assorted birds of prey. The countryside here is teaming with wildlife no doubt aided by the fantastic wildflower verges and flower beds in towns, which has prompted me to yet again wonder where has all of Englands gone? Other happy moments include my deft removal of a tick from James using a pair of pliers, only injured party was the tick, which frankly had it coming.

Minor downs are my gears are not entrily functional (though passable). I may have them looked at when we pass through Germany though I have managed to make them work better which is some consolation. I have also been going through some serious hayfever, my eyes can stream all day but the french have good drugs for this and so should be fine from now on. Prior to aquiring these though I was getting to cafes with a mucky tear streaked face giving me the appearance of a sticky child, nice.

Some of you may be surprised to hear that I have also had the pleasure as sampling some fine beers and wines, may I take this opportunity to recommend Leffe Ruby (but just the one as they're a little bit fruity to make a satisfactory all night breverage) as well as the local Alsace wine, but maybe do it when you are here where it is cheap and lovely. I am hugely looking forward to sampling some of the local German brews.

The plan, flimsy though it is, is to follow some of Germany's fine national cycle routes through the Black Forest and Bavaria (maybe Munich but maybe staying lower down) to Austria, over the Austrian Alps (the lowest bits we can find) to Slovenia and Croatia but that's just the plan today, it could all change tomorrow but that's all part of the fun of the ride.